Vogue 8998 – Floral Poplin Dress


This is my third project as part of the Minerva Makers Team. I chose to make Vogue 8998 with this beautiful cotton poplin sent to me by Minerva.

VOUGE 8998

I love a floral dress with a full skirt for summer. I added 1.5 inches to the length of the skirt. I’m 5’7″ and that’s a standard alteration for me. The weight of the fabric proved to be perfect for this style of dress.


The princess seams in the bodice are not only flattering, they offer a great opportunity for fitting. The bodice is fully interfaced and the dress fully lined.


The style of the dress combined with the floral fabric produced the feminine summer dress I was looking to create. With this dress I’m calling the summer sewing season done for 2019.


I made View D a few years ago.


Vogue 8998

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Jalie 3132 – Striped Hooded Top


My fashion photographer and I are planning a vacation for next year and my wardrobe needs some casual tops that will travel well. In order to avoid my usual last minute vacation sewing I’ve decided to start now by sewing tops in between non-vacation sewing projects.

I’ve made this pattern a few times, with and without the hood. I find the shape of the top very flattering. For this version I lengthened the sleeves by 2 inches and added sleeve tabs after seeing them on a similar ready-to-wear top. The other change I made was to shorten the top by 1 inch.


The fabric is a lightweight jersey from Stonemountain & Daughter in Berkeley, California. Most of the construction was done with my serger/coverstitch machine. I think matching the stripes took longer than actually sewing the top. At least it felt that way 😉 The jersey was thin so I added interfacing to the hemlines prior to sewing them.


Let’s see how I do with my vacation sewing. Besides a few knit tops, I also want to sew a couple of dresses and MAYBE a jacket. I expect I’ll still come up with a last minute project to sew before we leave.


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Jalie 3881 – Sleeveless Eyelet Blouse


The weather is still warm here on the Central Coast of California and I still have summer sewing on my mind. I bought this eyelet last summer and was determined to get it sewn up this year.

In my opinion, the width of the collar is perfect. I often find the collars of shirt patterns to be too wide. The yoke and back pleat are interesting features. My only issue with this pattern was that it was a little shapeless for my taste. I used another shirt pattern to help me shape the sides. I removed approximately 1.5 inches at the waist, tapering to nothing at the armscye and hem, which I left as drafted.


The fabric was 60″ wide and I had 1.5 yards. I didn’t have enough to cut the armscye binding in the eyelet so I used the same print I had planned on using for the collar stand. I like the way it turned out.


This is the type of top that I can wear all summer long.


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Vogue 8665 – Textured Knit Dress


This dress is my second project as part of the Minerva Makers Team. I chose this beautiful textured Ponte Roma knit. I’ve been looking for the right knit to make Vogue 8665 for a while. I pictured a knit that wasn’t too thin or too heavy. This one was just right. The dress has a nice swing to it when I walk.


This was a simple project to sew. The only change I made was to omit the zipper in the back. There was no need for it with this knit. There dress slips on and off easily. The pattern recommends using woven or stable knit fabrics.


Thank you to Minerva for the fabric. I chose it based on the video provided on their website and was happy to see that it was exactly what I had expected.

If you have followed my blog for a while you know that I can’t resist a dress with a good twirl. Capturing a good twirling picture is always a challenge.


Here are some outtakes from the twirling photo shoot:

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Burda Style 06-2019-112 – “Knotty” Knit Top


Like many other subscribers to Burda Style out there, my June issue was later than usual. I went online to checkout some of the patterns offered in the issue. When I saw this top I decided I would make it as soon as I received the magazine.


I found this medium weight rayon and Lycra ponte knit at Stonemountain and Daughter in Berkeley. I love that fabric store and wish they were closer to our home. Of course I found a few other knits while I was there.

The photo above bothers me because it looks like my knots are not centered on each other, and they are. Also, those are pockets and not panty lines. Ugh!

I didn’t make any modifications to the pattern. The construction was very simple and I barely glanced at the instructions. The pattern was easy to trace which is always a bonus. I love the neckline and the knotted bands in the back. Even the length of the sleeves is great.


A couple of weeks ago we visited family in the Central Valley. My sister-in-law had this sewing themed umbrella waiting for me in the guest room. I think it is so cute.


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Vogue 8379 – Knit Wrap Dress


This is my third time sewing Vogue 8379. It is my favorite wrap dress pattern. There’s not a lot I can tell you that hasn’t been said about this pattern. To-date there are 143 reviews on PatternReview.com. It was also a Best Pattern for 2007 and 2008 as well being in the Hall of Fame in 2009.

I wanted to share this version because it was made with an interesting border print. The multi-colored stripe was located at the edge of the floral print as well as the edge of the solid part of the fabric. I used the stripe/solid combination for the sleeve and the stripe by itself for the belt. I used the stripe that was along the edge with the floral for the belt. I should have taken pictures of the fabric prior to cutting it. There’s not enough left to make out the print.


This time I made the short sleeve version and omitted the collar. I made my usual changes for this pattern:

  • Added 1″ to bodice length.
  • Cut the center back skirt on the fold. I removed the seam allowance in order to do so.


This will not be the last time I sew this pattern. It is a joy to sew and I love the finished dress.


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Style Arc Issy Knit Top


I have purchased new summer patterns from the Big 4 as well as some independent pattern companies but somehow this season I’ve been sewing my old favorites more than my new ones.

I’ve been wanting to make a sleeveless Issy Knit Top ever since I made the longer sleeve version a few years ago.


This 2-way stretch knit purchased last summer was exactly what I had in mind for this pattern. The fabric has a nice drape and I knew it would do well with the side gathers. The pattern has a hi-lo hem thing going that I like.  I made my usual Style Arc size 8 without any modifications.


There’s not a lot more to say about this top. I made a new summer top and I love it. I don’t think sewing has to be any more complicated than that 😉


My previous Issy Knit Top:


Style Arc Issy


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Vogue 9184 – Stretch Cotton Sateen Maxi Dress


This sewing project is my first collaboration with Minerva Crafts. Minerva reached out to me last month and asked me if I wanted to be part of their Minerva Makers Team. I had noticed them on Instagram and liked their fabrics. I was excited to give them a try. Minerva provided me with this beautiful stretch cotton sateen. The rest was up to me. I had Vogue 9184 in mind when I chose this fabric. I’ve made this pattern twice before in the shorter version. Blogged here.


For the maxi version I chose to only make one side slit (the pattern calls for two side slits). I find maxi dresses with 2 side slits awkward when sitting. It always feels like the front doesn’t know where to go. I also shortened the side slit by 9″. I have no issues walking in the dress with the altered slits. I lengthened the dress by 2″ and made a 1″ hem.


The pattern is unlined but just like in my two other versions, I chose to line the dress. For this project I lined the dress to the top of the side slit.

I love my dress. It’s a great addition to my summer wardrobe.


My two previous versions of this pattern. I omitted the vertical fish eye darts for the white/beige dress.

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Burda Style – 04-2018-108 Ruffle Sleeve Seersucker Top


I never paid attention to this pattern when I first saw it in the Burda Style magazine. It didn’t strike me as my style. Recently, while out shopping, I spotted a white cotton top with eyelet ruffled sleeves. I thought it was cute and remembered seeing something similar in a Burda Style magazine.

BS 04-2018-108

The top I saw had an extra eyelet ruffle as well as a plain cotton one so I added another ruffle and made the smaller armscye seam ruffle in eyelet as well. To add the eyelet ruffle to the sleeve I cut the eyelet a little wider than the seersucker ruffle and basted them together. I then treated them as one piece.


The other change I made was to create neckline facings. The pattern calls for cutting some bias strips and using the strips around the neckline. The facings worked well. I understitched them and they stay nicely in place.


I used seersucker leftover from another project. Coincidentally that project was also a mix of seersucker and eyelet. This top was an easy project. I didn’t refer to the pattern instructions. Even the pattern tracing went well. The pattern pieces were simple and few 🙂


This pattern was not part of my summer to-sew list but I always leave myself open to changes. You never know when inspiration will hit you.


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McCall’s 7740 – Sleeveless Eyelet Dress


I love eyelet. It screams summer to me. I chose McCall’s 7740 for this black eyelet that I bought a few months ago in Canada. The dress is a simple style with an interesting back. As someone one said, it’s all business in the front and party in the back.


The pattern envelope doesn’t show the front of view A or B. Below is the line drawing.


After making a muslin for the top, I chose to raise the armscye by 3/8″. It doesn’t seem like a lot but it was enough for the bodice to feel more comfortable. I also lengthened the skirt by 2″. I’m 5’7″ and I found the pattern as drafted too short for me. I think my finished length is similar to the one picture on the pattern envelope for view B.


The buttons were a gift from my friend Stephen 30 years ago. He brought them back from England for me. There were 4 of them. I had them on a linen top for many years until it was no longer wearable. I saved the buttons and am glad I did because they are a nice detail on this dress.


The pattern calls for the dress to be fully lined. I used cotton voile for the lining.


This is a cute summer dress that was not complicated to make. I’m glad I took the time to make a muslin for the top. It would have been fine without my alteration but isn’t the reason for making your own clothes to get something you feel good wearing?


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